Day eight, and it’s the 21st December; I am alive and wake up in spectacular style! I was woken with the temple songs and clanging bells of the ‘laxmi mantra’ and ‘om namo shivaya’, my favourites, followed by the Muslim call to prayer and then my usual 5.45am alarm! The start of the day took us through an army base while we stocked up on glucose biscuits and drank our customary morning chai.
It was a tough morning for me. My body really hurts and Max says that this has become normal for him. Imagine that. Waking up to pain every morning and then having to walk a marathon. I don’t know how he does it. I do worry that some of his ‘normal’ pain might not get back to normal, with his body taking a serious toll day in and day out. I am glad to know that he is due a full check- up in Goa once he finishes his walk in Delhi, which he thinks will be in two to three weeks from now. Another irritation for me is that there are very few ladies toilets on the highway and when I ask where there is one, I get a pointing gesture and a one word response – “Jungle”. Thank you very much!
Well, we’re still standing, (‘I’m still standing, after all this time’!) another song in my head for today, and the world as we know it seems to still be turning….
The world as we see it approaching is like stepping into an old one, with miles and miles of scrubland, cattle herders, bullock carts, camels, water holes, and traditional thatch homesteads. Then onto another world; with people on the roadside; men, women and children all busying themselves with manual labouring work. They are smashing concrete, collecting gravel, sweeping and smelting metal. I happen across a photo opportunity with a serious looking man whose face softens when I stand next to him. I was happy at being able to stand by his side, and he looks as if he is secretly delighted as well!
Our walk into Ajmer is welcomed by a group of street children running towards us, eyes wide and their hair wild, grabbing at us and holding their hands out. It’s always difficult to just keep walking when facing this scenario. I want to acknowledge them, but I know this will encourage them further. In the background I can hear their mothers shouting at them to keep running after us for money, and it’s hard to know what the right thing to do is. I definitely sense their need but handing out rupees just normalises their begging and I don’t know where it will go towards. But then is it for me to judge or decide where the money goes? In time, reaching out to these people in a practical and on a more long-term strategy is the ultimate aim of One Step. I keep walking, smiling at the children, but not wanting them to feel that they can expect money from every foreigner that walks by.
Ajmer is an interesting concoction of religious sites and sounds. There is a colonial feel as we walk past a huge fort- like railway station, Christian churches, and a Victorian clock tower. The city is very busy and noisy with local traffic and people, which is a bit of a shock to my senses. I notice a man, decked in huge rings and medallions, who is eyeing us both up and down, and seems very keen for a photo opportunity. I point him out to Max to photograph, and the model poses proudly without flinching, except for his eyes, as he winks at me from behind his sunglasses! Ah, the people you meet! I love it!
We set off to find another place to stay, which turns out to be really good and comfortable, all clean and with a hot power shower! I think the excitement of finding a nice place to stay got me on a high and I eagerly started to look at the menu, ready to order room service. I could not stop laughing as I sifted through the menu. Every Indian menu that I have looked through has, without a doubt, always had interesting typos causing much amusement for me. I know I am going off on a tangent now, and it’s not about the walk, but I have to share some of these amusing dishes with you!
Paneer Hariyali
Ironic marination of cottage cheese and hung curd
Lemon Coriander Soup
Fresh herb soup with sourness of virtual main soup : to which Max retorted, “Well that’s not going to fill us up is it?”
Paneer Bhurji
Greated paneer tossed in road style : again Max, “Sounds like our kind of dish!”
Shame…. looks like the South Indian options are off the menu!
There is an array of complimentary boxes in the room, including a sewing kit, which gives cause for further excitement as I am able to stitch the underarms of my top together again as they are tearing apart constantly from too much wear – and tear! It is such an effort to even thread the needle let alone finding the focus, and strength, to stitch a small piece of material together.
After eight days of walking with Max and today’s 25km and 36,528 steps I am absolutely exhausted as my body kind of seizes up on me once I sit down. I appreciate that I came into this walk completely unprepared, not just physically but mentally as well. From reading about Max and One Step through the Facebook page I could see how hard Max trains, knowing that he would lose all of his strength by the end of each walk. But it’s the mental challenge that is equally as difficult. Seeing all the poverty, walking along noisy highways, the solitude that he must go through. I find myself going into solitary even while I walk with him so being on his own must make it so much harder. And then he is not just walking as I am, he is working for the charity as he walks, seeking ways forward, planning the next post, connecting with people where he can to keep the connection. It really does makes me wonder how on earth Max does this every single day and will continue to do so until he reaches Delhi. And then on to the next 2,000km walk which takes him over the Himalayan Mountain Range, and then the next from Delhi to Kolkata, and again, and again. It’s too much!
As he tells me, this is his full time job, the one that he has chosen to commit to. From what I have witnessed he takes each day as professionally and productively than any other person would or could under the circumstances. I am in awe.
Song for today: Laxmi Mantra (Laxmi is Goddess of wealth and abundance)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=579O0ebQHsg
The subtitles seem to be wrong, here are the words- translation welcome- as my learning of hindi is still a work in progress!
Om maha laxmi namo namah
Om vishnu prayayi namo namah
Om dhan pradaya namo namah
Om vishawa jannanya namo namah
Footsteps with a cause 